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Garden Betty

do your tomatoes get splits and cracks like this?


I just harvested my first ripe tomatoes last week from the plants I'd transplanted in June. (And these are the "early" tomatoes—65 days to maturity, which is right on time. When you read those seed packets or plant labels, the "days to maturity" for tomatoes always means days to maturity from transplant, not from seed. Weird, right? I go over this confusing thing in my post here.)

A few of the (otherwise healthy) tomatoes I'm seeing on the vine right now share a common characteristic: almost-ripe fruits with splits and cracks in the skin. Do you get this too?

Tomatoes that look like this are still edible (so long as the splits don't start to rot) but it's still frustrating when it feels like you're doing everything right. The fruits often split in very hot weather, but it's not the heat that's causing it.

​Here's why tomatoes split or crack and what you can do to prevent it.​

How to Prune Tomatoes for Maximum Production (and Why I Don't Remove Suckers)

Tomatoes Not Turning Red? 4 Reasons Why and What To Do

4 Natural Ways to Get Rid of Tomato Hornworms (For Good)

Picking Avocados: Best Way to Tell If An Avocado Is Ripe

Spicy Fermented Salsa: Take Tomatoes to the Next Level

Fiery Fermented Hot Sauce: 3 Simple Variations

Knock on wood—we've had surprisingly mild weather so far this summer in Central Oregon. But higher temperatures are forecasted over the next week, and I've got shade cloth ready to cover all the new seedlings that have come up in my raised beds the last few weeks.

If you just planted your fall garden and the heat isn't letting up yet, the best (and easiest) thing you can do to keep those seedlings happy is to give them shade!

Shade cloth (somewhere in the 30% to 50% range) can help bring down the heat, keep leafy greens from bolting too soon, and conserve moisture in the soil.

​Here's what I use for shade in my own garden.​

I currently use (and really like) the narrow widths between 3.3 feet and 5 feet (by whatever length my beds are), since I only need shade during peak daylight.

Narrower shade cloth means my plants are protected when the sun is directly overhead, but I can still access the beds easily without having to lift the covers. Beneficial insects can get in and out, and my seedlings get nice morning sun and late afternoon sun.

During these hotter periods, be sure to check the soil with a simple moisture meter (or your finger) so you don't overwater. Try to water for longer periods so the water absorbs more deeply. This trains your plants to seek moisture from deep underground, which makes them more resilient against heat waves.

(I have more tips here on how to protect your garden in extremely hot weather.)

Here's hoping we all get some relief from the heat soon!

​

P.S. If you're finding splits or cracks on your tomatoes, here's why that happens and what you can do about it.

P.P.S. Learn how to store all the vegetables you grow (or buy) with my Fruit & Vegetable Storage Guide. Download the PDF, print out the charts, and save money in wasted food!

Garden Betty

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