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If you've experienced a frost in your garden already, you might be eyeing your strawberry bed and that bale of straw in the garage. I know, covering them feels like the responsible thing to do. But this is the one winter chore where doing it early is worse than not doing it at all. Strawberries need a few weeks of steady cold to harden off. Mulch them before they get there, and the trapped warmth tells the plants it's still early fall. They keep pushing out soft new leaves (the first thing to die when real cold shows up), the crowns sit damp and start to rot, and the voles move into the cozy straw house you just built them. When it comes to winterizing strawberries, most people do it too soon. The surprising thing is that it takes a lot more than just a hard frost or two for strawberry plants to fully go dormant (if they do at all). You have to look for 2 signs: what the leaves look like, and what the temperature is doing (is your soil frozen yet)? These signs don't always happen at the same time every year, and depending on the season, timing can even vary by weeks. So I wrote a new guide that covers how much protection your zone needs (there's a chart), which leaves to snip and which to leave alone, and what to do with potted strawberries, which have it much harder than the ones in the ground. ​Here's how to winterize strawberries and avoid making an easy mistake.​ In my own garden, winterizing strawberries looks a lot like that picture above: wild, neglected, and letting the plants fend for themselves. They come back every year in my zone 5ish climate, and I explain how and why in my post. Seasonal tipsP.S. Not sure if your plants are ready to tuck in? Here's how to read the signs (and the thermometer).​ P.P.S. Jot down the date your soil freezes this year in your Ultimate Garden Diary, and next fall you won't have to guess. |
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